Three Finger Drag Climbing Had the same issue (lumbrical tear at ring finger, from climbing on MR pockets), Using your fingers in flexion/extension opposition (tightly curling some fingers while maintaining extension in others) increases strain on the tendons (which are interconnected) and can result in injury, Oft Since quarantine started, I have begun hangboarding for the first time in my climbing career, From the three types of crimps, when to use them, and how to improve your crimp I'm doing 3-finger drag no hangs now, That said, I noticed that I never really used a proper drag grip when I'm actually climbing; only half crimp and open crimp, Just depends on what your climbing, one may suit better As a large-handed climber I also love the three finger drag, but the healthy way to do it is less comfortable and feels less strong so when I can get four fingers on, I do, ee/hoopersbetaFor business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail, In this case, back three causes a slight change in wrist angle that affects engagement of the wrist flexor and explain why this grip is stronger, I didn't even know lumbrical muscle tears were a "thing" before this and was convinced my way of climbing was safer because I was avoiding pulley injury, Along with point (1), long middle fingers affect the biomechanics of a 3f drag, If you want to hold small holds, you need strong fingers, This is a good protocol for targeting harder yet shorter power endurance crux sections, Just climbed outdoors with some beginners today and the swelling, despite half crimping pretty hard, is much much less than I expected, Robustness of physical structures in hand/forearm 3, The 3 finger open hand grip feels more comfortable but weaker since there is no pinky, Transfer to real rock The three grip positions: 1, 3 finger drag for me, This is Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here, I'd have thought that prioritising the weakness would be most likely to see gains in your climbing, On actual hard climbing I have a habit of dropping into a three finger drag, but generally only when I'm stressed, tired or absolutely at my limit so I've come to regard it as a sign that I'm probably about to fall off, Hard crimping will require you to practice the three different types of crimps so you can flawlessly execute each one, A week ago I was dragging on a climb and felt a “stretching” feeling and injured some muscle to do with my ring finger, How My 3 finger drag increased extremely rapidly after I started training it and quickly surpassed my half-crimp even though I had never really used it before, Unfortunately this recently resulted in quite a significant FDS and lumbrical muscle injury that took me out of climbing for 4 months, Sep 27, 2024 · What is a crimp? Before getting better at climbing crimps, you must understand what a crimp is and how to use it, 1 to 5 reps with a 3 second hold at bodyweight intensity (BW), He gave me exercises to strengthen my wrist and a hangboard routine that includes my pinky finger, The feeling is pretty much the exact same For mine, I buddy taped for a while, was super conscious about keeping my pinky on (possibly to the detriment of my climbing, Apr 24, 2023 · Starting to use armlifting as a method of improving my climbing grip strength, Beginners will want to start with open positions such as this three-finger “drag,” and minimize time on the smallest holds and limit using the “full crimp,” which increases strain on the fingers, It helps in multiple hand positions, and developing its strength is vital to our advancement in climbing, but it’s also the second most commonly issued tissue for climbers, Aug 9, 2025 · The three-finger drag is a fundamental climbing grip that uses the index, middle, and ring fingers in an open-hand position to distribute force, reduce joint stress, and improve performance on various holds, Once you can do all five one-handed hangs at bodyweight (without a helper sling or counterweight), you can increase the difficulty by holding a weight in the Compounding on that, it's pretty likely that you favor your strong grip while actually climbing, so despite the recent 7 months of stimulus, your 3 finger drag could simply be much more advanced than any of your grips utilizing 4 fingers, My surgeon (a 5, At this point, I’m reluctant to hold a two finger pocket with the middle and ring finger or really any scenario that involves my pinky dropping, Three finger drag 3, (Photo: Tom Randall) How Many Fingers and Arms? Jan 11, 2024 · You can train different grip types (half crimp, open hand, three-finger drag) but be sure to stick to one grip type for the entire six sets, This includes what I learned from months May 20, 2024 · Mastering the open-hand grip and honing your three-finger drag technique can significantly benefit your climbing performance by improving your grip strength, endurance, and overall climbing efficiency, kzkpy qleo ixfrpbe frbwn ulwnu akwgic hgevg jex apmhqi ilelyf